Sundays and Bronze Mannikins

 

Sunday is for loose clothes, warm coffee and watching the Bronze Mannikins having breakfast 🤎

Every morning, come rain or shine, my little Mannikins arrive just before 7am for breakfast. It makes one helluva mess in the garden— the discarded husks almost become a layer of topsoil! Bronze Mannikins (Spermestes cucullata) are mostly found in flocks of dozens to hundreds. I’ve tried counting them as they descend onto my garden, but have given up. They are native to mainland Africa and besides seeds, they also feed on termites and nectar.  termites and nectar. 

Two adults resting on Juncus (common Rush)

© Tom Benson -- eBird.org

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My Fiscal Shrike - October 2025

My Fiscal Shrike, patiently watching as I fill her feeding station with small pieces of mince meat. And then, as soon as I call her, she would fly down to come and feed. 

I’ve been feeding her ever since we moved into our new apartment at the coast, after relocating from our smallholding in 2020. Over the past six years, she has raised two broods on average every year, often bringing her young ones close enough for me to see them. 

Then, two years ago in 2023, something extraordinary happened—she brought her three fledglings right to the feeding table, showing them how to feed on the little pieces of mince. 

During those few precious weeks, she allowed me close to them and one of the babies even started taking mince offerings from my hand. Soon they were spending most of their time roosting on a clothes rack on my patio, or appearing every time they spotted me in the garden. 

Then the time came that she started chasing them away from the feeding table, not allowing them to come near it. This behaviour is part of breaking the bond between parents and off-spring, when they are getting more independent and ready to leave the fold. It is also a strategic move, as Fiscals are very territorial and claim an area as their own, not allowing any competition for the food resources in that area. 

It breaks my heart every time I experience it, but nature has its ancient heartbeat that we have to acknowledge and obey.

Now her and hubby take turns in fetching little pieces of mince for their brood, although he is a bit skittish and won't come too close when I'm around.

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Air plant - Tillandsia

Tillandsias are epiphytes or air plants. It is a plant that grows upon another plant (such as a tree) non-parasitically or sometimes upon some other object (such as a building or a telegraph wire), derives its moisture and nutrients from the air, rain, and sometimes from debris accumulating around it. Roots may develop primarily for attachment, and specialized structures (for example, cups and scales) may be used to collect or hold moisture.

When this was given to me by a friend, it was a mere three inches long and after about 3 years, is now a whopping twelve inches! But much to my own chagrin, it should have been much bigger by now had I not neglected it, also labouring under the misconception that it didn't need any extra water apart from rain.

This one hasn't developed any roots and is just wedged between a dead branch and the tree trunk. Epiphytic organisms usually derive only physical support and not nutrition from their host.

This one might well be Tillandsia albida, in the family Bromeliaceae (Bromiliad), but I'm not sure. There are over 550 species of Tillandsia (plus many hybrids), that grow in the Mexico, South and Central Americas.

Bromeliad Tillandsia have a life cycle of one plant growing to maturity and blooming. Before, during or after blooming (depending on the species) your plant will start producing young (PUPS), most plants will produce between 2 - 8 pups which in turn will mature, generally within a year and in turn bloom and produce pups.

Tillandsias DO have to be watered, they live 'in' air, not 'on' air. They are NOT toxic to animals, although this does not mean your pet won't eat them, but they will survive the experience, your plant might not. Tillandsias are NOT parasitic, they do not harm the host tree. Trim away brown, bent or damaged leaves, this will not hurt the plant. 

Watering is one of the most important aspects of succeeding with Tillandsias, and one of the most misunderstood. Because their common name is Air Plants, people tend to think of these plants as needing little or no water (as living on air). This is the biggest mistake you can make. Tillandsias NEED water, although they can survive for long periods of drought.

Thoroughly wet your Tillandsia 2-3 times per week; more often in a hot, dry environment; less often in a cool, humid one. They need to be watered (underneath as well as on top) to the point of runoff as though they've just gone through a rain storm, AT LEAST twice a week. 

They do not need much in the way of fertiliser - in fact it is better not to give them any fertiliser. Some growers like to give a little liquid fertiliser (diluted 25%) a couple of times a year to assist in flowering and to speed up the production of 'pups' - the baby plants. 

NEVER 'plant' your Tillandsia. Putting a Tillandsia in soil is almost certain death to your plant. If you want it in a pot to look like a normal plant and you need to add some weight to stop it falling over, use gravel, pebbles or any other medium that drains rapidly. If your plant is placed in anything that holds water or moisture and doesn't dry out between waterings it will ROT!!! This is not a good thing!!!

Tillandsia aldiba (Photo Dave's Garden)

Don't leave water sitting in the crevices of big, fleshy Bromeliads - Tillandsias. And don't let them freeze! If you suffer particularly cold winters, rather bring your Tillandsia inside, if possible, otherwise maybe try and offer some protection against frost.

For more great info on care and on how to revive a neglected plant, read more HERE

Airplant Tillandsia with 3 open flowers and daughter plant

Pic credit

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Snooky and Avian Botulism - a happy ending (Repost)

One evening about two weeks ago, when I was closing my girls up for the night, I noticed that one of my hens, Snooky, didn't look well at all. She entered the coop with her wings slightly spread and her tail hanging very low and my first thought was, "Oh no! A stuck egg!" I inspected her, but couldn't feel an egg at all. The next morning, when I opened up for the chickens, I found her in one of the nest boxes, unable to walk. I brought her inside and did a gentle internal examination, using some petroleum jelly on my finger, to feel if the egg was there now, but still nothing. And she was displaying some other disturbing symptoms. 

She couldn't use her legs at all, they seemed totally paralysed and she also had trouble sitting up straight and kept on falling over, either sideways or backwards. I did a thorough check for any other injuries but found nothing. The funny thing was that she didn't seem sick at all. She was alert and her eyes were bright, her comb was bright red and she ate and drank readily without any coaxing, but I had to hold her up so that she could reach the food and water. Her droppings were also perfectly normal.

Totally perplexed, I put her in a basket next to me in my studio and I had to wedge her in the corner otherwise she kept on falling over. As it was the weekend and a vet not readily available, I started treatment with a general antibiotic (Baytril) which I keep on hand for emergencies, just in case it was an infection of some sorts.

My mind was racing, trying to figure out what it could be. I searched all over the internet for 'paralysed chicken' and 'chicken can't walk' and after a long search I discovered Avian botulism which described all the symptoms I found with Snooky. I was horrified as it stated that there was no cure and that affected livestock had to be culled. 

Avian botulism is a paralytic disease caused by ingestion of a toxin produced by the bacterium Clostridium botulinum - an anaerobic, Gram positive, spore-forming rod. It acts by blocking nerve function and leads to respiratory and musculoskeletal paralysis.  In all cases, illness is caused by the toxin made by C. botulinum, not by the bacterium itself. There are several types of toxin produced by strains of this bacteria with birds being most commonly affected by type C and to a lesser extent type E.

This bacteria is widespread in soil and requires warm temperatures, a protein source and an anaerobic (no oxygen) environment in order to become active and produce toxin. Decomposing vegetation and invertebrates (i.e., insects) combined with warm temperatures can provide ideal conditions for the botulism bacteria to activate and produce toxin.

Birds either ingest the toxin directly or may eat invertebrates (e.g. chironomids, fly larvae) containing the toxin. Invertebrates are not affected by the toxin and store it in their body. 

It struck me that, just two days prior, I had composted my whole garden, never giving a thought that it might harm the chickens. I then Googled 'chickens and compost', and found a widespread consensus that compost is NOT harmful to chickens and that many farms have compost heaps and that the chickens just love scratching around in it. So now I was really puzzled.

Come Monday, I was off to the vet with Snooky and here's where it gets a bit dicey.  Not many veterinarians are knowledgeable about chickens or birds in general and the vet's puzzlement was even greater than mine. I mentioned to her that I suspected Avian Botulism and her vague answer, after consulting with her senior partner, was that it was quite probable that it was Botulism as the botulism bacteria is the only bacteria or virus that produces a (neuro) toxin that causes paralysis. After giving her a vitamin shot and another shot of Baytril, they concurred that I should keep up my treatment of Baytril for a couple of days but that they are positive that it would be better to have her euthanased.

I took Snooky home in despair and kept up the treatment for another two days. It was now almost a week and she showed no signs of improvement. I was on the point of going back to the vet to have her put down when I decided to give her some physio. I know that sounds silly, but I really was desperate. I massaged her back and her legs (the drumsticks) a couple of times a day and also gently pulled her legs in and out, exercising them a bit. I also took her outside to the other chickens in the chicken run three or four times a day, putting her on the lawn where she would just fell over, having to support herself with her wings or rest on her elbows. I also supported her with my hand under her tummy, pushing her forward gently so that her legs "walked", keeping this up for a couple of minutes before taking her inside to rest.

On the third day of her "exercise regime", I took her out to the garden where all the other chickens were enjoying their sand baths and put her in some loose sand. She was totally ecstatic, trying to go through the motions of kicking up sand, but all she could manage was to flick some sand on her back with her beak. But within a couple of minutes she was managing to sit up straight without falling over! After about ten minutes we went back inside and I rewarded her with some of her favourite snacks. The rest of the day she was sitting up straight in her basket without any support, even managing to preen some of the sand out of her feathers and reaching into the food bowl on her own.

The next day (fourth day) when I took her out to the garden and put her down in the sand, she struggled up onto her legs and actually stood! I was cheering her on and after a minute or two she took her first tentative step and proceeded on a very wobbly walk through the garden. I was totally ecstatic!

It soon became apparent to me where she was going - she had seen a lovely spot where Chi-Chi was sand bathing and without further ado she exercised her right in the pecking order by getting Chi-Chi to give up this prime spot, where she immediately got right down to the business of sand bathing, kicking legs and flapping wings and getting a good covering of the good stuff!

After that, there was no stopping her and she started exploring the garden, every now and then stumbling over a rock and falling down, but always getting up and going again. When we went back inside, I allowed her to sit outside the basket and a couple of times she got up, wandered through the house and back out to the garden again.

Going through the kitchen

The first obstacle, the kitchen step, which she managed quite well

Made it to outside on the patio!

Managed to get down the first step

Traversing her way down to the third step

After bringing her back from the garden, I put her back in the basket as it was almost time to put the other chickens to bed. But she wasn't having any of that. She jumped onto the side of the basket, where she sat for a while, jumped off and headed for the garden again. That was the sign for me. She was better and ready to join the other girls in the coop again!

Snooky managed to get to the second rung of the roost!

Everybody settling in for the night with Snooky quite happy down on the second rung

When I opened up for everybody this morning, they all ran into the garden, with Snooky in the lead! Yay!!

Snooky running to catch up with the crowd

Happily grazing together

 Relaxing under the ferns in the garden

Snooky is still not 100% and I often see her stumble or have a slight wobble, and I'm not sure if she will ever recover fully, but I am so grateful that she's improved to the point where she can carry on with her normal life en enjoy the friendship of her companions. As to whether it was Avian Botulism or not I might never know but it has taught me two things - patience is always rewarded and don't under-estimate the will of a chicken that wants to sand bath!

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Southern Red Bishop

The Southern Red Bishop Male

The Southern Red Bishop ( Euplectes orix ) is common within Southern Africa, found in marshy grasslands and wetlands, with a height of around 13 cm’s and weighing in at around 23 Grams. The Bird feeds on Seeds and insects. These birds normally build their nest over a water body and are slightly different to the Black-Winged Bishop on their Face.

Every spring they return to my garden, the male's buzzing song alerting the female to the nest he's building for her. It also has various twittering calls and a nasal contact call. It’s the middle of September and I’ve already spotted them at the feeding table, but not yet in their breeding plumage.

This 10-11 centimetres long bird has a thick conical bill and breeding males are brightly-coloured with red (occasionally orange) and black plumage. The forehead, face and throat are black and the rest of the head is red. The upperparts are red apart from the brown wings and tail. The upper breast and under tail-coverts are red while the lower breast and belly are black. The non-breeding male and female have streaky brown plumage, paler below. Females are smaller than the males.


Red Bishop Female on Agapanthus


'Red Bishop' watercolour in Daily Journal - Maree©

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